How to make a winter jacket: just add one Burda jacket pattern to one metre of cloth!
This is the first time I’ve sewn a winter jacket and my first make using a Burda magazine pattern. I normally steer clear of Burda patterns but I knew I had to make this jacket after seeing a version of it in real life. I managed to track down an old copy of the magazine on Ebay – it’s the February 2009 edition.
I started off making a toile from an old duvet as I did not want to wing it with my precious wool. I wasn’t sure how Burda patterns fared in terms of ease but I was pleasantly surprised. I cut a size 38 which is a Burda UK dress size 12 and it closely followed my RTW size. There wasn’t the ridiculous amount of ease you get with the big four pattern companies. Do you find this is the case for all Burda patterns and is there any difference in terms of fit between the magazine and envelope patterns?
The only alterations I made were to narrow the raglan sleeve to get rid of the excess fabric bunching round the back arm hole and soften the curve on the shoulder seam so that the sleeve draped better over my shoulders. I’ve pinned out the excess in the picture on the right.
I made my jacket using just one metre of this gorgeous tweed. It came from a Margaret Howell sample sale and was a steal at just £7 a metre. I had a look on their website today and found out it’s Harris tweed. This jacket is made from the same cloth and its a whopping £695 so I made quite a saving!
As I had so little fabric to work with I had to compromise on the length of the jacket so added only 1 cm of seam allowance. I would have liked the jacket to be an inch or two longer but it is supposed to be quite boxy so have got away with it. I ran out of fabric when it came to cutting out my front facings but I found some tweed which was a fairly close match.
I split the facing in two sections and used my Margaret Howell tweed for the top section so that when the top button is undone, you don’t notice that the facing is made from two different fabrics. However, I like how they contrast with each other. It looks deliberate rather than a botch job.
Burda instructions are very basic with no diagrams but luckily the design is very simple. However, there weren’t any notches on the pattern and I got in a real mess when sewing up my facings. My back facing seemed to be too long so I hacked off what I thought was excess caused by my poor tracing. I then realised after I’d sewn it up that the excess needed to be eased in. Luckily I had a scrap of tweed left to re-do the facing. Having notches would have helped convince me I was on the right track.
This was my first go at raglan sleeves and I love them. They are a cinch to sew as there is no need for setting in. I recommend looking out for raglan sleeve patterns if you are making outerwear for the first time as there is no need to add structure to the sleeve head.
I chose a bright cerise coloured lining which really pops out against the grey tweed. One of the joys of sewing is adding nice details such as a funky coloured lining.
As my hem was only 1cm I used some braid to help it fold over and I blind slip-stitched this to my tweed. I then folded over my lining fabric and catch-stitched this to my braid. The upper collar and under collar pieces are cut from the same pattern piece. I found the collar instructions vague and couldn’t get the under collar to roll under but it’s not too bad.
I cut out the patch pockets and lined them but decided not to add them as they spoiled the clean lines of the jacket. Instead I sewed an inside breast pocket. The jacket is finished off with snap fastenings as per the pattern.
Finished result: love, love love it. I can’t believe I managed to eke out a jacket from just one metre of wool. I’m definitely going to explore other Burda patterns if this one is anything to go by as they are well cut and have realistic sizing.
I’ve clocked up two seasonal projects now and I’m glad I set myself a goal of doing more seasonal sewing as this lovely tweed would still be sitting in my stash. And the weather is going to be just right for it’s first outing tomorrow.